Forget barely-there beauty, New York Fashion Week this spring/summer 2020 was a pumped up celebration of colour and 1980s excess. From Tomo Koizumi’s bold, conical hairstyles to an elegant take on the punk makeup palette at Helmut Lang, there’s been a definitive shift away from the minimalism of past seasons, and a move to embrace brightness and individual expression. Here’s a quick recap.
The five key beauty trends you need to know about from New York Fashion Week S/S 2020
The trend: Elegant punk
Where we’ve seen it:Rag & Bone, Vera Wang, Proenza Schouler, Tom Ford, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Helmut Lang, R-13
What you need to know:This aesthetic is a fusion of dark magic and powerful women. Think spidery lashes and smoky charcoal liner; ponytails woven into long, leather whips and sealed with a lacquered spray. “I think it’s so fun that the eighties are back because I was there! I remember the eighties! But some girls now, like the models, they weren’t even alive for it. So they’re discovering this era of powerful women and really fun, bold looks for the very first time,” Guido Palau told Vogue at Proenza Schouler.
Style note: Your eyeliner is everything for this look. Dark kohl liner rimmed and smeared on the waterline creates the ultimate punk mood.
The trend: Working girl
Where we’ve seen it:Brandon Maxwell, Gabriela Hearst, Rebecca Minkoff, Jonathan Simkhai, Sies Marjan, Carolina Herrera
What you need to know:Confidence and attitude are the key ingredients for this look. Bold hair, with plenty of volume that can transition easily from the workplace to a wild night out. The aesthetic is a modern spin on 1988’s Working Girl, with nods to Melanie Griffith and Sigourney Weaver’s peachy skin, immaculate makeup and attention to detail. “This one’s for the confident, working women who have fun on the weekends. Isn’t that all of us? I mean, it should be,” says Justine Marjan, hair stylist at Rebecca Minkoff.
Style note: For this look, hairspray is your friend – it will extend the form and effortless finish of those messy buns, as seen at Rebecca Minkoff. Keep makeup simple with gunmetal grey hues, as seen at Proenza.
The trend: Princess Diana
Where we’ve seen it:Tory Burch, Alice + Olivia, Ralph Lauren, Rodarte, Khaite, Zimmermann
What you need to know:The references to the regal eighties style icon, Princess Diana, were everywhere this season, with particular reference to her early, more conservative looks – think volume in the hair up front and a side parting that stays firmly in place. Makeup was relatively pared back, just a little mascara and emphasis on the eyes.
Style note: Bring the hairdo up to date with a jeweled or pearl-embellished barrette slide, keeping accessories on the quietly elegant, luxe theme. Bring a dewy, youthful glow to the skin with a spritz of hydrating mist and a touch of cream blusher.
The trend: Glitterati
Where we’ve seen it:Tomo Koizumi, The Blonds, Jeremy Scott, Pyer Moss, LaQuan Smith
What you need to know:More is more this season, and New York Fashion Week proves it. There was an explosion of sparkle and glitter backstage at some of the most talked about shows. The influence of Lizzo, Katie Perry, and of course Euphoria, were everywhere. “Listen, we’ve been doing glitter for decades in fashion — especially with the overlap of fashion and music, sparkles are a big part of our inspiration. You never get tired of a good glitter moment, it’s part of our history in the fashion world, and it’s also not going anywhere,” enthused makeup artist extraordinaire, Pat McGrath, at Tomo Koizumi.
Style note: McGrath recommends recreating the look with her Pat McGrath Mothership VI Eyeshadow Palette in Midnight Sun – “add some spirit gum with Swarovski crystals, and call it a day!”
The trend: Painterly pinks
Where we’ve seen it:Christian Siriano, Helmut Lang, Jeremy Scott, Jason Wu
What you need to know:This is where makeup artists have really shown their artful genius: a traditionally unflattering shade that somehow becomes wearable, exciting and beautiful at once. There were flashes of pink everywhere, from the holographic brushstrokes at Christian Siriano to the intricate neon pink eye flicks at Helmut Lang. At Cynthia Rowley, there was white eyeliner drawn as Dr Seuss clouds, while Jason Wu had pink and saffron eyeshadow, blended into an ombre wash.
Style note: Try high-pigment pinks and oranges, or for an entry-level take on the trend, start with a -pink-toned shimmer across the lids, à la Oscar de la Renta.
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